THE STAUMC has been an active mountaineering club since 1934. It has a current website here (temporarily down). It also has a facebook page. There is also a really lively Youtube intro clip posted in October 2014 which is well worth watching.

The club's members participate in regular weekend and vacation meets, catering for a wide variety of climbers and hill-walkers. In addition, over the years, they have organised many overseas trips, including Greenland expeditions in 1960, 1963, 1965, 1967, 1969, 1971, 1975, 1977 and 1978. Details of these can be found from this website's index page.

The notes and photos on this page are just a few snapshots, mainly from the 1970's. I'm very happy to add extra photos etc if you send them to me at the email address at the foot of this page.

I think it's fair to say that the STAUMC has a reputable tradition in the annals of Scottish Mountaineering, and indeed Polar mountaineering. As will be seen from a sample of club membership cards below, there was a sort of cycle to the club year, with highlights including the Feich Trip at Hogmanay, originally in Glen Nevis, but then for many years at Glen Pean; the Easter Meet in the North-West, sometimes with a club dinner; and then the early June meet in Glen Brittle.

The social aspect of the club was a way of relaxing and balancing the serious intent of the climbing, and sometimes letting off steam. The club had a 7-metre long tent called 'The Nally' where people would crowd in on stormy nights. Music was a part of the club's tradition: a song book was put together, and guitars and accordians would be carried to remote bothies. In St Andrews, students met either at the Climbing Wall or in a designated pub. In the late 60s and start of the 70s this pub was The Castle Tavern (pictured below).

Over the years, epic trips took place, often involving the annual Feich Trip in the dead of winter: this tradition took place for at least 20 years. In addition, for some, there was the gradual collection of 'Munros', culminating in the celebration of somebody's last munro. Along with the fun, the adventure, and the friendships of mountaineering, there were also, tragically, accidents.

The STAUMC has evolved over the decades, each new generation bringing its own style and new adventures to the annals of this now 80-year-old club. There have also been a number of post-graduate clubs involving former STAUMC members, notably the Corriemulzie Club whose own history can be viewed here. Extracts of that history can be found near the foot of this page.

THE STAUMC has a wonderful collection of Club Log Books, full of tales of adventure and humour, and it is very much hoped that these will get digitised in the future so they can all be read online. The present undergraduates of St Andrews are putting the latest log book together. Meanwhile, here is an entry from 1971, written by Ian Walton (with thanks for permission to publish):

St. Andrews University Mountaineering Club Log, Volume 17, 1970-71

The Skye Scene - A Typical Day: White Slab Route, Coir' a' Ghrunnda, 4 June 1971

Andrew Stevenson, Ian Walton, Steve McIntyre, Mady Helme

A sharp elbow penetrated my sleeping bag, and as I struggled into consciousness, I registered the dulcet tones of Mady proclaiming porridge to be ready. The rigours of the previous night's singsong proved too much as I promptly returned to sleep between each course of breakfast and was reawakened in a progressively more aggrieved manner.

Several hours later I emerged from the Nalley to the domestic bustle of Glenbrittle camp life - alas still too early to miss the interminable wrangles over suitable climbs and socially acceptable parties. About 11:30 am the Presidential clique (ie: those who in theory are allowed to hear the President and Secretary declare: "I can't possibly climb that! Why don't you?" - but in practice...) wandered off towards Coir' a' Ghrunnda.

The sun shimmered in the traditionally cloudless Skye; the magic isles floated remote on a glass grey sea breathing island mystic with every reflected ray; the Cuillin reared jagged and inspiring, a grim majesty above the tortured heat of the moor and corrie. And in this set staggered along four climbers whose thoughts were not perhaps so beautifully inclined.

We had intended to visit the Coir' a' Ghrunnda loch itself but nothing can keep a keen climber from his chosen route; or perhaps because it seemed such a long and tiring walk in the heat we decided that the foot of the White Slab Route was an infinitely superior venue for our lunch. We watched two hard people tackling the Direct Route, and feeling we could not reasonably delay longer, argued about who should climb.

It was decided that Andrew and I being in need of confidence should climb together so I led off to the usual helpful barrage of "It looks steep / Why don't you use that small sloping hold? / Do you know your runner has fallen out? / etc." The seashells with which I liberally bestrewed the route were not totally incidental. As the route continued up a series of magnificent ledges and cracks the splendour of the corrie opened beneath us to a foreground of ever steepening slabs and (very) thin air. About this time Mady was indignantly heard to demand of Steve if he really needed to use six belays to bring her up (or was it two?). By Pinnacle Rake, Andrew and I seemed to be somewhat ahead despite an interesting new technique introduced on the pitch below. This consisted of a presidential exercise in ultra safe climbing and featured ten runners in 100 feet of rope: then occurred the technical hitch and an urgent request to the peacefully snoozing second to unbelay, climb up and remove the two bottom runners and thus allow the rope to move again.

We then proceeded to the top of the climb and settled down to await the arrival of the other half of our climbing party. They appeared annoyed, muttering and throwing moss at us a (long) while later.

An incredible plan to visit our Loch Coir' a' Ghrunnda on the way back to Glen Brittle was then proposed and adopted. It ended somewhat prematurely 200 feet back down the mountain when a female member of the party displayed a certain reluctance to proceed - or was it a secret desire to rush back to camp and cook us another superb dinner. Shortly after, our worthy leader suggested that we return to the Nalley, and as we weaved back down the ridge, this seemed an unusually excellent idea.

STAUMC CLUB MEETS

1967-1968

Summer 1967: St Andrews University Expedition to Upernivik Island, West Greenland

October 15th: Day Meet to Glen Lyon

October 27th-29th: Weekend Meet to Glen Etive

November 17th-19th: Weekend Meet to Coire Ardair

December 28th-January 3rd: New Year Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 3rd-7th: Meet to Glen Affric

January 21st: Day Meet to Drummochter

February 2nd-5th: Meal Monday Meet to Steall, Glen Nevis; and Glen Licht, Kintail

Last Week of Easter Vacation: Ling Hut, Torridon

Summer Term: Rock-climbing on Wednesday Afternoons

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

1968-1969

October 13th: Day Meet to Crianlarich

October 25th-27th: Weekend Meet to Lagangarbh, Glencoe

November 8th-10th: Weekend Meet to Staoineag, Glen Nevis

December 30th- January 6th: Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 31st-February 3rd: Meal Monday Meet to Steall, Glen Nevis; and Clashgour, Glen Orchy

February 14th-16th: Weekend Meet to Coire Ardair

Last Week of Easter Vacation: Sheneval, Wester Ross

Summer Term: Rock-climbing on Wednesday Afternoons

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

Summer: St Andrews University Expedition to Upernivik Island, West Greenland

1969-1970

October 19th: Day Meet to Glen Lyon

October 31st-November 2nd: Weekend Meet to Lagangarbh, Glencoe

November 14th-16th: Weekend Meet to Derry Lodge, Cairngorms

December 31st-January 5th: New Year Meet to Steall, Glen Nevis; and Knoydart

January 25th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

Meal Monday Meets: Glen Affric and Ben Alder

Easter Vacation: Applecross and Torridon

June Meet: Skye

1970-1971

October 18th: Day Meet to Crianlarich

October 30th-November 1st: Weekend Meet to Lagangarbh, Glencoe

November 13th-15th: Weekend Meet to Lake District

December 31st-January 11th: Annual Feich Trip to Knoydart, followed by Meet to Glen Cannich

January 24th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

Meal Monday Meets: Culra Lodge and Coire Ardair

February 26th-28th: Tarff to Feshie Mini-Feich Trip

Last Weekend of Easter Vacation: Corriemulzie and Sutherland

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

Summer: St Andrews University Expedition to South Greenland

1971-1972

October 17th: Day Meet to Glen Lyon

October 29th-31st: Weekend Meet to Glencoe

November 12th-14th: Weekend Meets to Galloway; and Derry Lodge, Cairngorms

New Year: 12th Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 23rd: Day Meet to Glen Clova

Meal Monday Meets: To Glen Nevis and Glen Affric

February 25th-27th: Weekend Meet to Aultbeithe, Loch Quoich

Easter Vacation: Meet to Sheneval, Wester Ross

April 28th-30th: Weekend Meet to Ardgour

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

1972-1973

October 15th: Day Meet to Crianlarich

October 27th-29th: Weekend Meet to Glencoe

November 10th-12th: Weekend Meet to Cairngorms

December 31st-January 9th: Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 21st: Day Meet to Glen Clova

Meal Monday Meet: Steall, Glen Nevis; and Glen Lichd, Kintail

February 23rd-25th: Winter Climbing Meet to Creag Meagaidh

Easter Vacation: Meet to Torridon

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

1973-1974

October 14th: Day Meet to Glen Lyon

October 26th-28th: Weekend Meet to Glencoe

November 2nd-4th: Weekend Meet to Glen Pean

November 9th-11th: Weekend Meets to Culra Lodge and Kinlochhourn

St Andrews Day Weekend: Meet to Nest of Fannich

December 29th-January 6th: 14th Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 13th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

January 18th-20th: Weekend Meet to Glen Etive

Meal Monday Meets: Glen Affric and Steall, Glen Nevis

February 22nd-24th: Winter Climbing Meet to Creag Meagaidh

Easter Vacation: Meet to Arran

Easter Vacation: Meet to North West Highlands, finishing at Kinlochewe

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

July: 10 day Meet to Wasdale, the Lake District

1974-1975

October 13th: Day Meet to Crianlarich

October 25th-27th: Weekend Meet to Clachaig and Blackrock Cottage, Glencoe

November 8th-10th: Weekend Meet to Derry Lodge, Cairngorms

November 22nd-24th: Weekend Meet to Kintail

December 29th-January 5th: Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 12th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

January 24th-26th: Weekend Meet to Jean's Hut, Northern Corries +

Meal Monday Meet: Meets to Ling Hut, Torridon; and The Smiddy, Dundonnell

February 22nd-24th: Weekend Meet to Culra Lodge

Easter Vacation: Meet to North West Highlands, finishing at Kinlochewe

April 13th: Day Meet to Arrochar

April 18th-20th: Weekend Meet to Ardgour

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

Summer: St Andrews University Expedition to Cape Farewell, Greenland

1975-1976

October 19th: Day Meet to Glen Lyon

October 24th-26th: Weekend Meet to Glencoe

November 7th-9th: Weekend Meets to Ben Alder Cottage and Derry Lodge, Cairngorms

November 21st-23rd: Weekend Meets to Loch Quoich and Steall Bothy, Glen Nevis

December 29th- January 11th: 16th Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 18th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

January 30th-February 1st: Weekend Meets to Culra and Creag Meagaidh

Meal Monday Meets: to Ben Nevis and Ling Hut, Torridon

February 28th-March 1st: Weekend Meets to Ben Nevis and Glen Etive

Easter Vacation: North West Highlands

May- Club Dinner Meet to Bridge of Orchy

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

1976-1977

October 17th: Day Meet to Crianlarich

October 29th-31st: Weekend Meets to Glencoe and the Lake District

November 12th-14th: Weekend Meet to Kintail

November 26th-28th: Weekend Meets to Fersit, Tulloch; and Culra

December 27th-January 9th: Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 16th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

January 28th-30th: Weekend Meets, Winter Climbing and Steall Bothy, Glen Nevis

Meal Monday Meet: Winter Climbing; Loch Monar; Dundonnel

February 25th-27th: Weekend Meets, Winter Climbing and Dalmally

Easter Vacation: North West Highlands

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

1977-1978

October 16th: Day Meet to Glen Lyon

October 21st-23rd: Weekend Meets to Glencoe and Lake District

November 4th-6th: Weekend Meets to Kintail and Cairngorms

November 18th-20th: Weekend Meet to Glen Nevis

December 9th -11th: Weekend Meet to Ben Alder

December 26th-January 8th: 18th Annual Feich Trip in Knoydart

January 15th: Day Meet to Glen Clova

January 27th-29th: Weekend Meets, Winter Climbing and Fersit, Tulloch

February 10th-13th: Meal Monday Meets, Winter Climbing and Torridon

February 24th-26th: Weekend Meets, Winter Climbing and The Smiddy, Glen Etive

Easter Vacation: Arran and North West Highlands

April 28th-30th: Club Dinner Meet to Glencoe, Kingshouse

June, after exams: Meet to Glenbrittle, Skye

STAUMC PAST PRESIDENTS

1934-35 David N Lowe

1935-36 Charles F Griffith

1936-37 Ewen C Thomson

1937-40 George A Collie

1947-50 William A W Russell

1947 Hon Pres: Professor Turnbull

1947 Hon V-Pres: Dr J Y Macdonald

1950-51 John Ray

1951-52 Michael Haines

1952-53 A G Mitchell

1953-54 William P L Thomson

1955-56 Don McTaggart

1956-57 Lindsay Morris

1957-58 John D Pitts

1958-59 Stan Yeaman

1959-60 W K Reay

1960-61 F Ian Wasson

1961-62 John C Wedderburn

1962 Bruce K Reid

1962-63 Ian Wilkinson

1963 Ken MacLean

1963-64 Christopher S M Doake

1964 Blyth Wright

1964-65 William M Ledingham

1965-66 James C S Gilchrist

1966-67 Alan K Robertson

1967-68 Ron Hilditch

1967 Hon Pres: Prof H I Drever

1967 Hon V-Pres: Dr P W F Gribbon

1968-69 William T Band

1969-70 J Neil Ross

1970-71 Robert Mutch

1971-72 Andrew Stevenson

1972-73 Ian Walton

1972 Hon Pres: Dr P W F Gribbon

1972 Hon V-Pres: Prof H I Drever

1972 Hon V-Pres: Dr W M Ledingham

1972 Hon V-Pres: Dr P C Riedi

1973-74 John P Sloan

1974-75 John F Cant

1975-76 Alan Haywood

1976-77 Colin Matheson

1976 Hon V-Pres: D Henderson

1977-78 Scott Peddie

1978-79 Margaret Veitch

1979-80 Jim Denny

1980-81 John Reglinski

1981-82 Kevin D Abraham

1982-83 Martin Kirkbride

1983-84 Jonathan Owen

1984-85 Dave Lomas

1985-86 Anja Ball

1986-87 Doug Brown

1987-88 Martin Holt

1988-89 Christopher Marden

1989-90 Jill Eardley

1990-91 Tim Clancey

1991-92 Jonathan Brown

1992-93 Adam Bumby

1993-94 Paul Sanderson

1994-95 Catherine Collins

1994 Hon Pres: Dr P Reidi

1995-96 Chris Swales

1996-97 Simon Hinchliffe

1997-98 Sophia Colley

1998-99 Gordon Osinski

1999-2000 Dr Kate Frost

2000-01 Aled Sage

2001-02 Dr John Ferris

2002-03 Gordon Bromley

2002 Hon Pres Ron Hilditch

2003-04 Helen Carnaghan

2004-05 Edward Cooper

2005-06 Lettie Chambers

2006-07 Richard McDonald

2006 Hon Pres Dr Roy Dyckhoff

2007–08 Kerry Law

2008–09 James Lismore

2009-10 Fraser Leith

2010 Jack Barraclough

2010-11 Zach Wishart

2011-12 Eve Blumson

2012-13 Xiao Xian Goh

2013-14 Alex Sandulescu

2014-15 Chris Ellyatt

2015-16 Lucy Stanfield

2016-17 Rasa Juras

2017-18 Tim Lowe

2017 Hon Pres Jill Davies

2018-19 Patrick Milne

2019-20 Claire Wever

2019 Hon Pres Rasa Juras

2019 Hon Pres Susannah Clark

2020-21 Lucy Hart

2021-22 Beth Carol

2022-23 Johnathan Carrotte

2022 Hon Pres Colin Matheson

2023-24 Cameron Duff

THE CORRIEMULZIE MOUNTAINEERING CLUB was founded in Nest of Fannich Bothy at Hogmanay 1964. This account was written by Bill Ledingham, describing its origins and very close association with the STAUMC - an association that continues to this day, as for many years graduate former members of the STAUMC joined the Corriemulzie Club, and involved undergraduates in many of their meets:

"The original Corriemulzie Mountaineering Club was formed in Nest of Fannich bothy at Hogmanay 1964. It included members of the St AUMC and others who were not St Andrews students including the legendary Philip Tranter who drove the CMC (in more ways than one). The Club had headquarters in the Laggan Inn and, later, Inveroykel Lodge Hotel where dinners were held and bothy accommodation was always available. These hostelries were owned and run by John Small CMC - a one time cigarette salesman in China who was an aimiable kilt-wearing host. (He also did a hard snow&ice route on Craig Meagheagh with Philip Tranter). The CMC explored the Northern Highlands, put up new routes in a little explored area and published a Rock & Ice Guide to Easter Ross with a Foinaven supplement (1966). Easter Ross had not been a traditional climbing area before 1960 with only Tom Patey (Ullapool GP) active there. Between 1960-66, some 40 routes were established. The main areas were the Fannichs, Beinn Dearg, Corriemulzie, Alladale and Glen Beg. These routes were later incorporated in the SMC Guide to the Northern Highlands.

Members associated with these new routes included Pete Baker (St AUMC), Blyth Wright (St AUMC), Philip Tranter, Ian Rowe, Will Fraser, John Wedderburn (St AUMC), Jadwiga Kowalska (St AUMC), Chris Doake (St AUMC), Colin Martin (St AUMC), Peter MacDonald, Ken McLean (St AUMC), Neil Travers (St AUMC), and Alastair Park (who was killed in a climbing accident on Foinaven). Alastair,a bacteriologist,was responsible for checking cooked chickens at his firm. Friday afternoon preceeding meets seemed to coincide with more 'failed chickens'."

Life in the Corriemulzie Club

Bill Ledingham continues: "Mountain trips were organised by Tranter. He lived near Dornie and worked as a civil engineer on the new (low) road linking Dornie to Kyle as a designer of the many bridges needed. Before the widespead availability of modern telecommunications "postcards from Dornie" told people how they would be travelling and with whom to the next meet and what food was to be brought. These trips - known as feich trips - were arduous affairs and camping (winter & summer) was often the order of the day. Tranter had designed a multi-person linear tent termed a "Nalley" which was back-packed around by 3 persons. Feeding was communal with large feich pans of packet soups - always enriched by a block of Echo margarine - prepared by Tranter. Seldom was the first camp less than 15 miles from the cars. You were expected to have 2 sets of clothes - wet ones for climbing/marching, and a dry set for tent life. The first Nalley was set on fire at La Berarde in the Dauphine Alps in France (careless refueling of a petrol stove close to an operating Primus seems likely to have been responsible). The Nalley burned to the ground despite much "foaming" by the French tourists (including Tranter's beard). Well-intentioned plans to create a Corriemulzie MC journal led to the first issue, which was published in 1966. As is often the case with these things, good intentions were not enough and this was not just the first, but the only issue of the CMC Journal. A copy has recently been unearthed. The peak of CMC activity was the Scottish Hindu Kush Expedition of 1965 (Philip Tranter, Will Fraser, Gavin Johnstone & John Wedderburn). Philip Tranter was killed in a road accident in Northern France in August 1966 - returning from a shorter mountaineering trip to Turkey. From his notes/sketches /photos of the SHKE Philip's father edited a book 'No Tigers in the Hindu Kush'."

"The CMC went into decline after Philip's death and was wound up in the late 60's. The club's assets (copies of the guides) were distributed to members." Bill still has a copy. See also the photos below. "Camban - then a roofless bothy near Glen Affric hostel - was renovated in 1969 and officially opened as the Tranter-Park memorial bothy on 1st November 1969 with Philip Tranter's father Nigel Tranter and Alastair Park's mother present."

The New Corriemulzie Club

"The current CMC originated in St Andrews in 1971 and had the Castle Tavern as its base. Initially most members were St Andrews or ex-St Andrews students (most of whom had been in the St AUMC) and the CMC provided a continuing mountaineering fraternity after St Andrews. At its peak the CMC could count meets of 40/50 people (with spouses and kids), dinners of 70/80 but then the kids, their noises rubbed in mountaineering, became typical teenagers and went their own ways... I remember a long debate, around a logfire in a bothy at Pattack, about the merits or otherwise of maintaining an input from the St AUMC... that input was not maintained and now we grow old together."

Bill Ledingham, President St AUMC (1964) 1st President CMC (1971)