Climbing to the west of Torssukatak Fjord


1975 University of St Andrews South Greenland Expedition: first ascent of Agdlerussakasit, first attempt on Maujit Qaqarssuasia - 1996 British team climbing west of Maujit Qaqarssuasia - 1997 Scottish Torssukatak Spires Expedition: second ascent of Agdlerussakasit, first ascent of Maujit Qaqarssuasia - 2000 British team with Ben Bransby, Matt Dickenson, Ian Parnell and Gareth Parry: first ascent of The Thumbnail - 2000 British Eastern Torssukatak Spires Expedition - 2003 Torssukatak Spires Expedition with Jon Roberts, Dewi Durban, James Mehigan and Richard Sonnerdale: The Cruise Line - 2003 Spanish/Brazilian team with Cecilia Buil and Roberta Nunes: Hidrofilia and first ascent of Maujit Qaqarssuasia east peak - 2007 Polish team with David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska: Golden Lunacy - 2010 US/Belgian Torssukatak team with Bob Shepton and Dodo's Delight - 2012 Polish team with Alek Barszczewski, Marcin Ksiezak and Jaciek Kuczera: second ascent of Golden Lunacy - 2012 Swiss Torssukatak youth expedition - 2013 US team with Kearney, Scully, Dickey and Brett - 2013 Spanish/Basque team with Andres, Castro, and Escribano - 2014 Belgian pair Siebe Vanhee and Tim de Dobbeleer overland and kayak



2012: Swiss Expedition puts up new route on Whale Top

A Swiss expedition visited the valley south of Whale Top (Point 1303), where Jon Bracey's team had climbed in 2000. There were 20 people in the team including 14 young climbers aged between 14 and 20. They put up a new route on Whale Top called 'La Chute du Rein', 600m, 6c.




Information about the 2012 expedition

Expedition Greenland 2012 members:

Bruno Metral, Dylan Tramaux, Julie Metral, Julien Plaschy, Lindsey Darbellay, Louis Roggo, Emmanuel Pignat, Mégane Berclaz, Nicolas Gay, Robin Lenzser, Romain Guex, Simon Passak, Valentin Roduit, Valentin Dorsaz, Antoine Salina, Yannick Boissenot (camerman), Gregory Bueche (Mountain guide), Maxime Derivaz (Mountain guide), Philippe Gay (Mountain guide), Jasmine Lienert (doctor).

This expedition was organised by the St. Maurice GMA club, and the young climbers were celebrating the end of 3 years training in the Alps. This is the tenth GMA trip that has been organised in 30 years.

Details of the new route:

Whale Top (1303m), new route: 'La Chute du Rein', 600m, 6c, and one A1 pendulum.

The route follows a 300m flake, and then up cracks and corners, followed by a 250m scramble to the summit. While most of the climbing was protected by pegs and traditional gear, some hand-drilled bolts were placed where necessary along the pitches and to back up some belays.

There is a short video put together by Yannick Boissenot which you can view here and a longer version can be bought here.




Website by Susannah Clark

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