1975 UNIVERSITY OF ST ANDREWS GREENLAND EXPEDITION
Climbing from Stordalens Havn in Cape Farewell Region
Introduction - Maps - Climbing History - Personal Account - Mountaineering Report - Mountains to South of Basecamp - Mountains to North of Basecamp - Mountains from Desperation Camp - Mountains from Sallies Kitchen Camp - Mountains from Hellhole Hollow - Mountains from Lost Loch Camp - Mountains on Pamiagdluk and the Islands - Mountains in the Nameless Valley of the Land of the Towers - Archaeology - Botany - Equipment Report - Food Report - Financial Report - Travel Report - Medical Report - Photo Gallery - Thanks and Acknowledgements - Later Visitors to Stordalens Havn
47 Peaks are described in this section, climbed from various camps. Each mountain is numbered, and the number on the map on this page matches the number in the report. Details include approach route, height, grid reference, date of ascent, grade of climb, time taken, and people involved.
The expedition carried out an extensive mountaineering programme. The routes varied from straightforward scrambles to difficult rock routes, from easy walks to elaborate mixed ice/rock ascents.
Forty-seven different routes are listed here, most of which were successful ascents on virgin mountains. They were done on thirty-seven separate outings. Forty-four routes were new; only four mountains had been previously climbed.
The overall grading of the routes is on the French system, which takes into account technical difficulty, length, access and seriousness, while the grading of individual pitches is on the Scottish rock grading system.
The number of routes in the different grades were as follows: 5 facile/easy, 17 peu difficile/few difficulties, 13 assez difficile/sufficient difficulties, 5 difficile/difficult, 7 tres difficile/very difficult.
The names of the mountains (as numbered and shown on the sketch map ) are those given by the members of this or earlier expeditions. They are not officially recognised titles, except for a limited number of Greenlandic names that appear on the Danish Geodaetisk Institut map, 1: 250,000, 60 V 2, Nanortalik ( 1969 Edition ) . The position coordinates are taken from this map. Altitudes are either measured heights, or are taken from the maps; in a few cases they have had to be estimated to the nearest 50 meters.
The descriptions are contributed by the members indicated by asterisk. The mountains have been listed in appropriate geographical groups corresponding to the main areas visited by the expedition.
The diagrams of the routes up the mountains show the general topographical features on the mountain and its neighbouring hills in order to assist future route identification. These route diagrams are not all on the same scale: the height scale bar representing 100 m is placed on the upper left diagram. Further information of the mountains of Tasermiut-Ilua region is given in the 1971 St. Andrews expedition General Report, obtainable from Dr P Gribbon, formerly of the Department of Physics, University of St. Andrews, Fife, Scotland or contact the web designer.
CLICK ON A SECTION BELOW TO READ INDIVIDUAL MOUNTAIN REPORT:
All peaks listed are first ascents (except those listed 'attempt' or 'second ascent').
1. Basecamp at Stordalens: peaks to South - 1. Inevitable. 2. Crossoak Road. 3. Ivory Tower. 4. Ben Trilleachan.
2. Basecamp at Stordalens: peaks to North - 5. Snow Maiden (second ascent). 6..Blockhead. 7. Chosser.. 8. Angiartarfik. 9. Bolder (east face).
3. Desperation Camp - 10. What a Flog. 11.Slough. 12. Nice One. 13. Cyril. 14. High Rising. 15. Mister Bruce.
4. Advance Camp at Sallie's Kitchen - 16. Fingers End. 17. Claw. 18. Perch. 19. Birdseye View. 20. Freebie. 21. Bare Top.
5. Hellhole Hollow Camp, Land of the Towers - 22. Crowsnest. 23. Pooh. 24. Piglet. 25..Scorpion. 26. Shats. 27. Gormenghast. 28. Umanangua.
6. Lost Loch Camp - 29. Spirifer. 30. The Canines. 31. The Anvil. 32. Matterhorn C. 33. Ra Wallies. 34. The Prune. 35. Wee Bolder. 9. Bolder (north-east ridge).
7. Pamiagdluk and the Islands - 36. Cheetah. 37. Enniware. 38. Cambridge Peak (second ascent). 39. Pimple. 40. Frenchbird (second ascent). 41. Twin Pillars of Pamiagdluk. 42. Snoopy. 43. Echo. 44. Point 990 (second ascent).
8. Nameless Valley, Land of the Towers - 45. The Ogre. 46. Tower of Pain (attempt). 47..Agdlerussakasit