1996: British team climbing west of Maujit Qaqarssuasia

a Leeds-based climbing team with Chris Bedford, Simon Inger, Henry Lickorish and Alastair Mitchell. They approached the Torssukatak mountains from a base in the west at the head of Narssap Sarqa fjord, and made 6 first ascents and the second ascent of Magic Arrow (aka 'The Ogre'). They reported on the vast potential for big new routes on the faces of Maujit Qaqarssuasia and Agdlerussakasit.

Overview of the 1996 expedition

This British team of climbers approached the Agdlerussakasit / Maujit Qaqarssuasia group from the west, and a basecamp at the head of Narssap Sarqa, before the fjord bends round into Amitsuarssuk. They had originally planned to base at Stordalens Havn to the north, but on discovering it had been the base for the St Andrews expedition in 1975, who had climbed many of the peaks, they opted for the more southern base instead. From here the mountains around the Blue Lake, Maujit Lake, and the lake marked 560m became accessible between July 24th and August 13th 1996.

The team had flown from London to Iceland, and then on to Narssassuaq, and by helicopter to Nanortalik. There they chartered a 26-ft cabin cruiser that carried them in three and a half hours, thick fog and a swell to their basecamp.

The weather overall was good, with only 3 or 4 days lost to climbing. There were few mosquitos but swarms of little black flies. Use of headnets was sometimes almost essential. Wild mushrooms, blueberries and crowberries were readily available.

The objectives: to climb Alpine-style from basecamp as far as possible, taking lines of least resistance up previously unclimbed peaks.

6 first ascents were made, and a second ascent of The Ogre, which they called Magic Arrow.

The peaks are detailed on the map below, which I based on a map made by the 1997 expedition, referring also to notes from our 1975 climbing trip:

1. Amusissa - 1320m, first and second ascents via 2 routes, PD and AD+. July 25th: Inger and Mitchell, via the west spur (PD); Bedford and Lickorish, via the northern flank (AD+).

2. Aiguille Rouge - 1100m, first ascent via a scree gully then on rock, D-. July 26th: Bedford and Lickorish.

3. Base Camp Crag - first ascent of 'Route 1', 15 pitches, HS4b, 600m. July 26th: Inger and Mitchell.

4. Navianarpoq - 1550m, first ascent, 1550m, AD. This route was reccied by Ali, then they took a diagonal line across rock ledges for several hundred metres, before a short pitch led via four linked snow and ice fields to the summit. July 28th: Inger, Mitchell, Bedford and Lickorish. 'A superb, classically Alpine day out.'

5. Qaqiarssiaq - 1440m, first ascent, F. A 700m snow ramp was taken across the south-facing cliffs, and on to the peak. July 30th: Inger, Mitchell, Bedford and Lickorish.

6. Base Camp Crag - first ascent of 'Dick van Dyke', HS4b. August 2nd: Bedford and Lickorish.

7. Base Camp Crag - first ascent of 'Dave Lee Traverse', 3 pitches, sea-level traverse, VS4c. August 2nd: Inger and Mitchell.

8. Magic Arrow (aka The Ogre) - 1200m, second ascent, TD- with two pitches of V+. August 3rd: Mitchell, Bedford and Lickorish. (Simon was ill.) 'A fine finger of immaculate grey granite.'

9. Tikaguta - 1350m, reccie, 5 hours walking, much over horrendous scree, to reach a col. Decided against the 400m of near vertical rock that stood between them and the summit. Poor visibility to explore other possible approaches. August 7th: Inger and Mitchell.

10. Umanangua - 1425m, first ascent, a committing route up the SW ridge, D. August 10th: Bedford and Lickorish.

11. Point 1320 - 1320m, an attempt on the summit spire, retreated through lack of right gear. August 10th: Inger and Mitchell.

12. Peak 10 - 1000m, first ascent, 1000m, PD+. The twin-peak of Aiguille Rouge, but not so steep. Solo'd by Ali. August 11th: Mitchell.

The team returned to the UK and reported on the vast potential for big new routes on the faces of Maujit Qaqarssuasia and Agdlerussakasit.

My thanks to Simon Inger for permission to use expedition photos. A copy of the expedition report can be viewed in pdf form if you click on the link.