Climbing to the west of Torssukatak Fjord


1975 University of St Andrews South Greenland Expedition: first ascent of Agdlerussakasit, first attempt on Maujit Qaqarssuasia - 1996 British team climbing west of Maujit Qaqarssuasia - 1997 Scottish Torssukatak Spires Expedition: second ascent of Agdlerussakasit, first ascent of Maujit Qaqarssuasia - 2000 British team with Ben Bransby, Matt Dickenson, Ian Parnell and Gareth Parry: first ascent of The Thumbnail - 2000 British Eastern Torssukatak Spires Expedition - 2003 Torssukatak Spires Expedition with Jon Roberts, Dewi Durban, James Mehigan and Richard Sonnerdale: The Cruise Line - 2003 Spanish/Brazilian team with Cecilia Buil and Roberta Nunes: Hidrofilia and first ascent of Maujit Qaqarssuasia east peak - 2007 Polish team with David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska: Golden Lunacy - 2010 US/Belgian Torssukatak team with Bob Shepton and Dodo's Delight - 2012 Polish team with Alek Barszczewski, Marcin Ksiezak and Jaciek Kuczera: second ascent of Golden Lunacy - 2012 Swiss Torssukatak youth expedition - 2013 US team with Kearney, Scully, Dickey and Brett - 2013 Spanish/Basque team with Andres, Castro, and Escribano - 2014 Belgian pair Siebe Vanhee and Tim de Dobbeleer overland and kayak



2013: US Expedition puts up new route on Breakfast Spire

Quinn Brett, Prairie Kearney, Lizzy Scully and John Dickey spent 18 days climbing from the valley south of Whale Top (Point 1303), where Jon Bracey's team had climbed in 2000. New routes included 'Morning Luxury' on Breakfast Spire and 'Plenty for Everyone' on Barnes Wall.





Overview of the 2013 US expedition

The team of four climbers from the US arrived in Torssukatak fjord by small powerboat on June 24th. After a day of snow, they headed up the valley south of Whale Top (Point 1303m), previously visited by Jon Bracey's 2000 team, and briefly by the Dodo's Delight team in 2010. They made several new routes from this valley, before the expedition was cut short by personal bereavement.

The routes included:

New route: 'Plenty for Everyone' on the south-east arete of Barnes Wall, 5.10+/11-, 550m, 10 pitches, 14 hours camp to camp. June 28th: Brett, Kearney and Scully. It is believed that a French group climbed the peak above Barnes Wall in 2012 by a climb/scramble up the south ridge. For a great pic of Barnes Wall (to the right of the sunlight) from the camp, click here.

Other new routes: 'Four Quickies' and 'Mind Your P's and Q's' on Submarine Wall, part of a north-facing ridge. Both climbs 5.10, 120m. Brett, Kearney and Dickey. Also a third route further left on Submarine Wall was started, from which the climbers retired.

Breakfast Spire, second ascent (*see below), via the south arete and the new route 'Morning Luxury', 5.11a/b, 430m, 8 pitches. View here. July 1st: Brett, Kearney, Scully and Dickey. Brett described the view across to Shepton Spire as "jaw-dropping". They abseiled down the east face of Breakfast Spire, where Ian Renshaw had fallen and broken his ankle just short of the summit while climbing with Jon Bracey in 2000.

(*note on ascent of Breakfast Spire: the summit has several small spires/blocks. It is hard to determine which is highest, the one climbed on this trip - the south block - or the one climbed in 2010 by the Dodo's Delight team - the north block. It appeared from the the lack of abseil gear that this was the first ascent of this particular spire at the summit.)

For a fun video clip of the team dancing on the summit of Breakfast Spire, click here.

The east face of Breakfast Spire attracted the team, but Scully's foot was badly scolded in an accident, and then the team learnt of the tragic death of Andrew Barnes - close friend and climbing partner of Quinn Brett - back in Colorado, after whom the Barnes Wall is named. Further climbing was abandoned and the expedition cut short on July 11th.

You can view descriptions and accounts of this expedition by Lizzy Scully here and here, and there are some great photos and trip description by Quinn Brett: view here.




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